

I just found your blog, and will be looking in on it from time to time. It’s interesting how machines can either be abundant or scarce in various areas of the nation. It was the first Lotus that I’d even SEEN in my area in 10 years. I also collect sewing machines, so I’ve got a 66-14 with a side-mount foot, left my 66-3 hand crank Red Eye as a back-clamper, and finally found a 66-1 Lotus back-clamper (treadle only – no mounting boss) just this past May 2016. I’ve changed a few of them in the past 10 years, but I haven’t changed one for myself yet (I do vintage machine work for the public in my wife’s fabric shop). Good walk-through on changing the Singer 66 presser bar. The pressure should be just enough to feed your fabric evenly and give you stitches that are all the same length.
CLEANING INSIDE A SINGER RED EYE 66 DRIVER
I used a small flat head screw driver to pry it open a little as I got it started. Slide the thread cutter onto the presser bar. Remove the presser foot and the screw that holds it in place.Insert the spring down through the top of the machine. If the needle bar hits the presser foot, lower the presser foot and adjust the horizontal bar up a little further.
CLEANING INSIDE A SINGER RED EYE 66 FULL
Raise the presser foot lifting lever, turn the flywheel a full revolution, and make sure the needle bar doesn’t hit the presser foot.

Turn it so the flat edge on the lower end of the bar is facing the left side of the sewing machine. Insert the side clamping presser bar down into the machine.On a back clamping machine, also unscrew and remove the presser foot holder that the presser foot attaches to. Remove the presser foot and the screw that holds it in place. Remove the needle, just so it isn’t in the way and you don’t stab yourself.This probably goes without saying, but clean all parts and rub them down with sewing machine oil before putting them back in the machine. The procedure for removing the presser bar from a donor side clamping machine is basically the same as for the back clamping version, so I’ll just show the steps for the back clamping machine. My presser bar was a bit rusty on the ends, but after soaking it in Evapo-Rust and polishing it with metal polish it looked pretty good. I use the locking pliers as a last resort, though, because no matter how much I try to protect the knob from damage, I usually end up scraping it up. On my rusty parts machine, in order to remove the foot pressure knob, I had to wrap the knob with a strip of leather, then grip it with locking pliers. If left on the machine, it will eventually dry to a film that will glue the parts together.

I don’t like to get WD-40 near my sewing machines, but if you choose to use it, make sure to clean it off thoroughly before putting the machine back together. If you have any problems with stuck parts, apply some penetrating oil (such as kerosene or Liquid Wrench) and let it sit for a bit, then heat the area up with a hair dryer, which does wonders to soften up hardened oil. The conversion process is pretty simple, but you might run into problems due to old hardened oil and rust. Just make sure you get one with a side clamping presser foot. I got mine on the shopgoodwill auction site. You can find these on ebay sometimes, but I found it was cheaper to just get a whole parts machine for myself. You’ll need a side clamping presser bar from a Singer 66 parts machine. I found text directions for the conversion on the Treadle On site, but I couldn’t find any pictures of the process, so I’m writing up a tutorial on how I did it.
